Each pigment in the ink composition has its own unique chemical structure and, as a result, individual properties specific to it.
To understand how the ink will behave (especially over time), we must know and understand the characteristics of each pigment in its composition (read more about key pigment properties below).
BLACK PIGMENTS IN PM INKS FOR EYEBROWS
Iron Oxide Black CI 77499 – an inorganic pigment. Relatively stable and durable.It gradually fades (loses its saturation). Depending on its concentration in the ink and the density of the application, it can last an average of 2 to 5 years on eyebrows and up to 10 years on eyelids.
Inorganic black pigment is combined only with other inorganic pigments.
Most common compositions of inorganic pigments in inks:
Black + Red
Black + Red + Yellow
Less common: Black + Red + Yellow + White
Rarely: Black + Red + Yellow + Green
STABILITY AND DURABILITY OF OTHER INORGANIC PIGMENTS
Red Iron Oxide is more stable than black.
Yellow Iron Oxide is less stable than black.
White Titanium Dioxide is more stable than black but is added in small amounts.
Green Chromium Oxide is stable (also added in minor amounts).
The colors of inorganic inks appear natural, warm brown, or cool brown. After healing, the ink may become slightly cooler but not significantly. With a proper composition, most inorganic inks remain stable for a long time, gradually lightening into a brown or gray-brown tone.
Gray residue in inorganic inks is possible but usually acceptable, not overly cool, and transparent enough for touch-ups.
In rare cases, inorganic inks may leave a cold gray residue, particularly if the ink contains green pigment (Chromium Oxide CI 77288).
In the later stages of fading, some inorganic inks may show a reddish tone (find out why here).
While inorganic inks can gray over time, this occurs gradually, and in most cases, the gray tone remains acceptable and even natural-looking.
CARBON BLACK CI 77266 (Technical Carbon)
There is ongoing debate regarding its chemical classification (organic or inorganic).However, for PM artists, what matters most is its unique properties.
Carbon black is very stable and highly durable.Depending on its concentration in the ink and the density of the application, it can last on eyebrows from 2 to 5 years or even a lifetime on eyelids.
Its distinctive feature is its high dispersibility (carbon black particles are significantly smaller than those of any other pigments), providing exceptional coverage and intense black color.
Traditionally (but not exclusively), carbon black is combined with organic pigments.
STABILITY AND DURABILITY OF ORGANIC PIGMENTS
Organic pigments—azo dyes (red, orange, yellow) commonly used in eyebrow inks—are unstable.Almost immediately after penetrating the skin, they start losing saturation and brightness.
The combination of unstable organic azo dyes with stable carbon black often leads to its dominance in the overall appearance.
DISTINCTIVE FEATURES OF CARBON BLACK IN INKS
Immediately after healing, inks containing carbon black tend to appear cooler.
Dark, saturated colors start graying within a few months.
Even initially warm tones turn cool gray within a year.
Medium-saturation cool or neutral colors, like darker tones, tend to gray.
Warm medium-saturation tones also eventually gray, but slightly later than cool tones.
Exceptions might include light warm or neutral inks (designed for blondes) with a high concentration of yellow and orange and minimal carbon black. These may not remain warm for long but can appear neutral, with even the gray residue looking natural.
If the ink contains green (74260) or blue (74160) pigments, the ink will inevitably turn gray, even in warm shades for blondes.
HYBRID INKS
These inks are primarily composed of carbon black and organic azo dyes but may also include white inorganic titanium dioxide or small amounts of inorganic oxides.
Hybrid inks, like organic ones, gray quickly since the inorganic oxides in the mixture are too few to significantly impact color stability. Inorganic pigments are added mainly to increase density, not to adjust the tone.
KEY TAKEAWAY
The combination of carbon black with organic pigments (even with some inorganic pigments in the mix) will almost always result in a cool gray residue on eyebrows.
So remember: It’s not about going deeper into the skin, despite what pigment suppliers might claim. The skin type, equipment, and needle used do not affect this outcome.
Even highly experienced PM artists can encounter graying brows. Incorrect ink depth or poor color selection can only worsen the situation.
Read more about solutions to the problem of brow graying >>>
The first hydrophilic pigments with a unique combination of iron oxides and carbon black
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