A Brief History
At the onset of the modern tattoo industry (and subsequently permanent makeup or PMU), inorganic pigments were predominantly used for skin pigmentation.
These pigments had certain drawbacks, such as:
Difficult penetration into the skin.
Color retention after healing was only about 50% of the original intensity.
Inorganic pigments are known for their natural and muted hues. While these characteristics generally met the needs of PMU, they were less appealing to tattoo artists who sought more vibrant and diverse colors.
The invention of organic dyes, celebrated for their intense vibrancy, revolutionized the tattoo industry, offering endless creative possibilities. Over time, the PMU industry also embraced the superior qualities of organic pigments.
Organic Pigments for Lips
In the 2000s, PMU pigment manufacturers began incorporating synthetic organic dyes into inorganic lip pigment formulations. This innovation enriched the color palette with bright, saturated hues and significantly improved the penetration properties of the pigments.
Organic dyes, due to their hydrophilic chemical structure, interact effectively with both the pigment base and the skin's moisture.
As a result, organic pigments penetrate the skin effortlessly, anchor well, and retain their vibrancy even after healing.
Impressed by these qualities, manufacturers gradually increased the proportion of organic dyes in lip pigment formulas, retaining only titanium dioxide and, occasionally, small amounts of inorganic oxides (to maintain consistency).
For over two decades, organic or hybrid lip pigments have dominated the PMU market due to their minimal drawbacks.
However, PMU artists must carefully assess pigment ingredients, as certain organic dyes are banned for use in tattoo and PMU products due to potential allergic reactions or other health risks. (Refer to the list of prohibited pigments for more details.)
Although inorganic lip pigments are still available, their market presence has declined significantly with the rise of organic alternatives.
Organic Pigments for Brows
When it comes to brow pigments, PMU artists are divided between organic and inorganic options:
Inorganic pigments: These are harder to penetrate but are valued for their long-lasting color stability.
Organic pigments: These penetrate the skin easily but struggle to maintain warm tones over time. A common disadvantage of organic brow pigments is their tendency to fade to gray.
Why Does Gray Fading Happen?
A fundamental component of any organic brow pigment is black carbon, one of the most stable and durable pigments. However, other organic colors in the mix—such as red, orange, and yellow—fade faster than black, often leading to a grayish tone over time.
Which Pigments Won’t Fade to Gray?
The likelihood of gray fading depends on the amount of black pigment in the formula:
Light warm or neutral shades for blondes: These perform well because they contain more yellow and orange pigments, with minimal black.
Medium-intensity shades: These may gray slightly but not drastically.
Dark saturated shades: These are almost guaranteed to turn gray before fading completely.
Additional Details
Some organic brow pigments include green (CI 74266) or blue (CI 74166) dyes. These components are used to tone down the brightness of organic colors, creating more natural and appealing shades.
However, the stability of blue and green pigments can also cool the overall tone over time, resulting in a grayish appearance.
Color Correctors
If a client’s skin tone or desired look makes gray tones undesirable, this can be avoided by using orange correctors:
Add a few drops of orange corrector to the base pigment, especially if the base is cool-toned.
To neutralize an existing gray tone, apply one or more layers of pure orange corrector or mix it into the primary pigment in a ratio of at least 30%.
WizArt Pigments
All three WizArt lip pigment series (CLASSIC, BASIC, MAIN) and one brow series (BASIC) either contain organic pigments or are fully organic.
Hybrid Brow Pigments (BASIC Series):
Do not contain green, blue, or other banned dyes, nor titanium dioxide.
Fade gradually without altering the tone over time.
Lose about 50% of their saturation in 1.5–2 years, making them ideal for timely touch-ups.
Lip Pigments:
Lighten and require touch-ups approximately every 2–3 years, depending on the color.
Praised for their ease of penetration and predictable color results.
Conclusion
The invention and application of organic pigments in tattoo and PMU products have greatly expanded the possibilities within these beauty industries. Their wide color range allows even the most demanding client requests to be met, while improved penetration properties and more predictable healing results make them the top choice, especially for lip pigments.
For brow pigments, understanding the composition and characteristics of organic dyes makes it easy to avoid any undesired outcomes, such as tone changes or graying over time.
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