AESTHETIC AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF PIGMENTS
When selecting the best ink for their work, PMU artists face a complex dilemma. Inks differ not only in their color properties but also in their physical characteristics.
Inorganic oxides provide beautiful shades and resist graying but often have difficulty penetrating the skin.
Organic or hybrid pigments, despite their tendency to gray, penetrate the skin more easily and fix well, making them more appealing to artists.
HYDROPHILIC VS. HYDROPHOBIC PIGMENTS
A well-known test among PMU artists, often demonstrated in training, is used to distinguish between organic and inorganic pigments.
Hydrophilic pigments (from Greek "hydro" – water and "philos" – loving) interact with water, dissolving or dispersing evenly.
Hydrophobic pigments (from Greek "hydro" and "phobos" – fear) sink to the bottom and do not mix with water.
Organic pigments, due to their molecular structure, interact well with water and give inks hydrophilic properties.Inorganic pigments, with their crystalline structure, are naturally hydrophobic.
HOW TO IMPROVE THE PENETRATION OF INORGANIC PIGMENTS?
To make inorganic inks as penetrable as organic or hybrid ones, two key steps are required:
Grinding pigments into finer particles and modifying their shape.
Adding surface modifiers and binders to adjust surface energy and create hydrophilic properties.
Binders such as surfactants and polymers are already widely used in cosmetics, medicine, and pharmaceuticals and are now incorporated into modern PMU ink production.
FUNCTIONS OF BINDERS
Surfactants reduce the surface tension between components that do not naturally mix (e.g., water, glycerin, alcohol, pigment particles). They enable the even distribution of pigment in the liquid and the skin by attracting pigment to water in the cells and intercellular space.
Polymers like PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone) act as thickeners, stabilizers, and dispersants. They bond components together, ensuring a stable solution, and improve solubility while retaining moisture.
Thus, the problem of poor solubility and penetration of inorganic pigments can be resolved by improving manufacturing technologies.
THE REVOLUTION OF HYDROPHILIC INKS
Although the PMU ink market is saturated, hydrophilic inorganic inks remain rare. Many artists still use organic, hybrid, or traditional hydrophobic inorganic inks without knowing about alternative options.
WIZART PIGMENTS: INNOVATION IN PMU
WizArt, always committed to innovative technologies, has developed two palettes of hydrophilic pigments based on inorganic pigments.
One of WizArt's key achievements is the MAIN palette, which combines Carbon Black with inorganic pigments (yellow and red iron oxides) without using organic azo dyes.
The natural colors of inorganic pigments, combined with Carbon Black, create well-balanced blends:
Carbon Black, in moderate concentration, ensures the necessary saturation.
Inorganic pigments provide long-lasting color stability.
This formula prevents unwanted graying and reddening over time while ensuring uniform penetration and excellent post-healing results.
GRAY NEUTRALIZATION
Traditional organic correctors cannot neutralize gray residues or prevent their occurrence, even when added in large quantities. As we know, they lose their brightness very quickly.
Additionally, it’s important to highlight a major drawback of organic pigments: they are extremely difficult to remove, whether by laser or various removers.
Even after losing their brightness compared to Carbon Black and having little impact on the final skin tone, organic pigments (red, orange, yellow, green, blue) remain stubbornly in the skin during laser removal of unwanted gray tones in brows.
Carbon Black disappears immediately after the first laser session.
Organic pigments, however, persist and are very hard to eliminate.
To address this issue, WizArt has developed inorganic hydrophilic correctors, which can be used with any organic, inorganic, or hybrid pigments. These correctors allow PMU artists to:
Neutralize unwanted colors for a longer period.
Avoid unwanted tones during laser removal, as inorganic pigments can be removed completely and quickly without color inversion.
WIZART CORRECTORS
TERRACOTTA (brick)
Effectively warms cool tones and neutralizes unwanted gray residues for a long time.
MIXING (yellow)
A universal corrector suitable for mixing with any eyebrow pigment, light or dark.
Ensures a uniform, natural hazel tone after healing.
CONCLUSION
To avoid brow graying in PMU, prioritize high-quality inorganic inks. And if you want not only beautiful PMU colors but also fast and easy application, choose inorganic inks with hydrophilic properties.
HOW TO RECOGNIZE A HYDROPHILIC INORGANIC INK?
In an ideal world, all necessary information would be available on the product label. Unfortunately, labels often lack complete details about pigments or other components.
THE LASER TEST
A practical way to distinguish organic inks from inorganic ones is to test them with a laser.
Organic/Hybrid inks (gray-brown):After laser treatment, they turn red, orange, yellow, or green. These colors are difficult and time-consuming to remove.Example: In video demonstrations, an orange organic corrector barely reacts to the laser and remains visible after multiple sessions.
Inorganic inks (iron oxides):
They are either removed immediately or leave a faint grayish residue. Unlike organic inks, they do not leave red, orange, or yellow traces.
Example: WizArt's inorganic inks, including correctors, are removed instantly without color inversion.
WATER TEST
The hydrophilic properties of an ink can also be tested in water. However, inks that dissolve in water are not necessarily organic. They may be hybrid or even hydrophilic inorganic.
Conversely, inks that do not dissolve and sink are undoubtedly inorganic and hydrophobic. In video demonstrations, WizArt's inorganic inks dissolve in water, proving their hydrophilic nature.
CONCLUSIONS
Study pigment properties carefully to predict their behavior during application, after healing, and over time.
Choose pigments with a balanced composition to ensure color stability and avoid unwanted tones.
Always buy from trusted sellers and request supporting documents like MSDS and REACH compliance.
Stay updated on market innovations to find advanced solutions like hydrophilic inorganic inks.
Rely on real-world experience rather than advertising promises. New manufacturers may lack data on long-term product performance, leading to unpredictable results.
The primary goal is to ensure a durable and aesthetically pleasing PMU result. Brow graying creates extra work for the artist and disappoints clients expecting long-lasting results.
In our upcoming materials, learn why PMU brows sometimes turn red >>>
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