By their genetic nature, all people can be conditionally divided by color types. A combination of characteristics such as hair color, eye color, and skin tone gives us an idea of the dominant pigment in the body: carotene (yellow), hemoglobin (red), or melanin (brown). This knowledge is crucial when selecting pigments for permanent makeup, PMU colors for micro-pigmentation of eyebrows, lips, and eyes.
The awareness that not all colors suit everyone equally arose as soon as people had the possibility of choosing clothes, accessories, and cosmetics. The first to propose and develop the system of dividing into color types (the theory of seasons) was the renowned art historian Johannes Itten. Equally famous businessman Max Factor was the first to implement this theory in practice, creating products for decorative makeup according to these four color types. The well-known American dermatologist Thomas B. Fitzpatrick developed a special 6-point skin phototype scale in 1975, dividing them based on sensitivity to UV radiation. This scale gained great popularity and is often used in practice, especially by cosmetologists and doctors, when selecting cosmetic products or choosing laser procedures.
For a permanent makeup artist, it is important to identify the client's color type not only for the successful selection of the color for future permanent makeup but also to understand how the skin tone of this color type will affect the color of the applied PMU pigment.
Pigments for permanent makeup can look different on each person depending on their natural skin color.
On the one hand, being in the dermis, under the layer of the epidermis, the PMU pigment appears lighter and cooler, regardless of the skin tone. However, positioned in the skin as micro-dots, the pigment is perceived as an optical mix of these two colors. When the pigment is applied in the skin lightly and airily, the color of the permanent makeup will contrast less with the skin, thus looking more natural. And if the pigment is applied in a dense layer, where the skin tone is almost invisible through it, the healed color of the permanent makeup will resemble more the color of the pigment in the bottle but will look cooler and more artificial.
Thus, the correct selection of colors and pigments for micro-pigmentation of eyebrows, lips, and eyes is the key to a harmonious and natural result.
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